Michel Autran spent nearly 20 years as an emergency medicine doctor before the wine bug bit hard enough. He left medicine, apprenticed under some of the Loire's best Chenin producers, and started his domaine in 2011 with half a hectare of vines. The rest followed slowly and deliberately, which is kind of the whole point.

Working exclusively dry since 2017, a genuine rarity in Vouvray, Autran harvests only perfectly ripe fruit and ages his wines for a minimum of two years.

The results are precise, alive, and a little hard to put down.

This week we're pouring three expressions: a pét-nat, and two still Chenin that show just how much range one grape and one committed grower can cover.

Flight $20